Essential Oils - What you need to know to make your own blends

July 01, 2019

Essential Oils

Essential Oils - What you need to know to make your own blends

There are so many opinions and advice on essential oils that it can become confusing.  Hoping this will answer the many questions I have had regarding essentials oils.

  • Should you buy Essential oil or Fragrance oils?
  • How do you know if an Essential oil is pure and therapeutic grade?
  • What are Groups of essential oils and why should I care about that
  • Precautions and how to care for your Essential Oils
  • Oils to use with caution
  • Where and How to use your Essential Oils
  • My top 10 favorite essential oils and why
  • Essential oil blend ideas for you to try

Using essential oils really isn’t complicated.  Here I will try to cover the basics. There are a few thing you need to know and be aware of.  We are all learning and if you follow a few simple guidelines you will know when and what to use.  Aromatherapy is wonderful and you can have so much fun trying and experimenting different blends. 

I have personally used Gumleaf essential oils for over 20 years. There are so many different brands available that it can be confusing.  Find a brand that has gone through strict testing, are accredited by PETA, cruelty free, vegan and Australian made & owned. I choose Australian made but this is personal of course.  You will find your favorite brand if you don’t already have one. 

What is the difference between Essential Oils & Fragrance Oils

Essential oils are botanicals derived oils extracted from either leaves, seeds, petals, roots etc from the plant a farmer grows.

Fragrance oils are synthetically produced and they may contain a combination of both manufactured (synthetic) and botanical materials.

Should you buy Essential oil or Fragrance oils?

It really does depend on what you want to use them for?

  • Essential oils are used for therapeutic purposes and are also used for scent purposes.  
  • Fragrances are used merely for scent purpose.  They have no therapeutic use except they will make your home or perfume smell pretty or exotic etc.  

Essential oils will of course cost you more but the therapeutic uses are worth every bit of it.

How do you know if an Essential oil is pure and therapeutic grade?

Some essential oils due to their high cost are blended with a natural but inexpensive oil to reduce the costs.  This is extremely hard to know unless it goes through an independent testing.  

The best way to be sure is to ensure the essential oils you buy have gone through a strict independent testing.  The company selling them should be able to declare if the oils have gone through strict tests by a third party via gas chromatography, optical rotation, refractive index, specific gravity, color & odor profile. This ensures the oils are certified to be “True to Botanical; pure and free from adulteration. 

Yeah I know it's a mouthful but the company making and selling the oils should be transparent enough to declare these tests have occurred.

Groups of essential oils and why should I care about that?

Knowing the 3 different groups essential oil fall in will allow you to know what to blend each oil with, depending on the outcome & benefits you want.

Essential oils are categorized into 3 groups

Top Note – these uplift, stimulate and refresh

Mid Note – These stabilize, harmonize and balance

Base Note – They strengthen, relax and calm you.

You can find which group they belong to if you read the back of the Essential oil Bottle.

Precautions and how to care for your Essential Oils

  • Don’t apply to your eyes
  • Don’t ingest essential oils
  • Keep out of children’s reach
  • Store your essential oils away from children, away from heat and direct sunlight
  • Don’t apply undiluted directly to the skin.  Always use a carrier oil.  Some essential oils Phototoxic and they can cause some slight skin pigmentation.  They can also be skin irritants if you have sensitive skin.
  • Read each Essential oil precautions advice as some may not be suitable to you if you are pregnant or suffer from epilepsy.
  • Don’t use the same essential oil for long periods as you may develop a sensitivity.

Oils to use with caution

  • Phototoxic oils and use on the skin may increase sensitivity to sunlight – these are citrus oils such as Lemon, Orange, Tangerine, and Bergamot
  • If you suffer from Epilepsy you should avoid using Fennel, Rosemary, Sage and Lavender Spike.  These oils may trigger seizures.
  • If you are pregnant (congratulations) you should always check if they are safe for you to use.  There are many oils you should avoid such  Aniseed, Basil, Black pepper, Cedarwood Atlas, Cedarwood Virginian, Cinnamon, Clary Sage, Clove Bud, Cypress, Fennel, Jasmine, Juniper Berry, Lavender Blended, Lavender Spike (French Lavender is safe to use if you are pregnant), Marjoram, Melissa officinallis, Myrrh, Nutmeg, Palo Santo, Peppermint, Rosemary, Sage and Thyme
  • Oils that can be irritant to sensitive skin are Aniseed, Basil, Bergamot, Black Pepper, Cinnamon, Citronella, Clove Bud, Fennel, Ginger, Juniper Berry,

Where and How to use your Essential Oils

Essential Oils Aromatherapy Bath


Massage oils – Add 10 to 15 drops of essential oil or combination blend of your choice in 30mls of carrier oil.

It is so easy and it will save you money.  My favourite carrier oil is Sweet Almond Oil but you can use Coconut Oil or any of your favourite oils. 

Aromatic Baths – Add 3 – 6 drops of essential oil to a teaspoon of Sweet Almond oil and place this mix in your bath and stir the bath water.  Water must be agitated.  Caution: when using essential oils with children’s bath ensure adequate and safe dilution rate is used and essential oils are fully diluted.

Vaporizers and Diffusers – Add 3 to 5 drops to the water compartment of your diffuser.  This is a wonderful way to establish the mood you want.  Create your own mood, romantic, invigorating, relaxing, refreshing, seductive, uplifting or enhance your sense of wellbeing.

There are many other ways you can use your essential oils such as log fires, room sprays, lotions and creams etc. Experimenting is part of the fun. 

My top 10 favourite essential oils and why

Bergamot (Top Note) – it uplifts, calms & refreshes.  Soothes frustration and anxiety – I use this oil in my Mist Diffuser. 

(Caution – Can be a skin irritant to sensitive skin and avoid it exposure to direct sunlight if you are using it directly on the skin in a massage oil for example)

Chamomile (German Blue) in 3% Jojoba Oil (Mid note) – it is a balancing oil, soothing & relaxing. Calms the nerves, eases frustration and tension 

Frankincense (Base Note) – It is relaxing, calming & stenghtening.  Great if you meditate.  Helps soothe fear & anxiety

Geranium & Rose Geranium (Mid Note) – both these oils are uplifting & balance mood swings.  They help deal with stress, insecurity & anxiety

Grapefruit (Top Note) – Uplifting, resfreshing & reviving. This oil helps deal with sadness, apathy and frustration

Lavender French (Mid Note)– Balancing, relaxing, therapeutic, calming & soothing.  Perfect for stress relief and also used for meditation

Rose (Mid note) – Harmonizes & boosts confidence.  Alleviates sorrow, anxiety & grief.

Sandalwood (Australian) (Base Note) – Relaxing and harmonizing. Enhances openness, intimacy & meditation

Tea Tree (Australian) (Top Note) – Strenthening and cleansing.  Boosts confidence & positivity.  Repels insects.

Essential oil Blend ideas for you to try

These are my personal loves for blends I use in my mist diffuser.  There are thousands more combinations. Have fun and experiment with your favorite oils

Grounding - Bergamot, Lavender & Sandalwood 

Stress reliever - Geranium & Lavender

Stimulate & Activate the mind - Rosemary & Lemon

Workplace blend - Lemon, Bergamot, Rosemary or Rosewood

Romantic Blend - Ylang Ylang & Rose

Ease fears - Frankincense, Lavender & Sandalwood

Stress reliever - Bergamot, Lavender, Rose & Sandalwood

Stale air reviver - Lemon, Lavender, Grapefruit & Cypress


Thanks for reading and I hope this will help you create wonderful essential oil blends.



Isy Moolicious Founder

 Information provided here is only a guide created from my personal experience and with the help of articles from Aromatherapy Secrets - Nerys Purchon, Buckley & Phillips Aromatics & The Complete Guide to Aromatherapy - Salvatore Battaglia

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1 Million Type - A luxurious masculine aroma headlining blood orange and the spice of nutmeg and clove with a bold leather and woody base. Blood Orange, Grapefruit, Nutmeg, Clove, Leather, White Wood.

50 Shades - Sexy & alluring, powerful & seductive. Send your senses into overdrive. Masculine scent with bergamot, cedar wood, warm leather & musk.

Alluring & Glamorous – This is a ‘to die for perfume fragrance” A favourite with all the ladies. Notes of ylang ylang, iris, rose, jasmine, sandalwood, vetiver and vanilla.

Australian Bush - Go for a walk through the Australian Outback with this authentic fragrance with notes of lemon, pine & eucalyptus.

Australian Sandalwood - A rich, woody blend with a true to life aroma. Australia has the largest natural resource of sandalwood (santalum spicatum) in the world

Baby Powder - This soft and woody blend makes you feel on top of the clouds. It begins with white cedar and blue violet petals. The heart blends freesia, ylang, heliotrope and cypress. The dry is a woodsy, powdery musk.

Bamboo & White Lily - An elegant scent, the intensity of the lily is gently wrapped in the oriental note of bamboo. An enticing combination that works well in any environment.

Blackcurrant & Plum - Delightful fruity notes of  lemon  with the intoxicating allure of cyclamen and pine. Final notes of  spice,  florals, and amber complete this resonant fragrance.

Black Raspberry & Vanilla - A spirited combination of blackberries and raspberries head this alluring fragrance with pretty, white florals at its core, harmonised by resounding notes of creamy vanilla and luscious musk.

Black Rose & Oud - Oriental, woody and floral, Black Rose and Oud ticks all the right boxes. A complex concoction of a rare dark resinous heartwood, oud wood originates from South-East Asia and is widely sort after by perfumers across the world from the most renowned fragrance houses.  Infused with patchouli, cinnamon bark, clove leaf and palmarosa, this sensual and rich blend of rare oud wood and exotic spices is the perfect accompaniment for the rose and geranium top notes.

Bubble Gum - Bring back those childhood memories with this fruity favourite. Sweet and juicy, just like the real thing! 

Bulgarian Rose - Warm, floral, specifically dense, fine with honey notes, specific for Bulgarian Rosa Damascena.

Butt Naked - This enticing blend has base notes of honeydew melon and Granny Smith apples with middle notes of pears and strawberries and top notes of spice.

Buttercream Vanilla - Delightfully sweet and rich with freshly churned butter layered with dark vanilla bean and a hint of star anise.

Chai Tea - The exotic spice of chai tea combined with a warm, creamy aroma, with a base of cinnamon and clove and additional notes of black tea and vanilla bean.

Champagne & Strawberries - A distinctive combination of ripe strawberries & raspberries with notes of champagne & roses.

Citrus Fruit & Mint - A combination of refreshing spearmint and peppermint leaves with fruity tangerine and lime with hints of freshly cut grass, tropical melon and star anise.

Coconut & Lemongrass - An exotic touch of Thailand. Tart, fruity top notes of pineapple, lemongrass and lime blend with a peachy middle, leading to a smooth finish of vanilla, sandalwood and coconut.

Coconut Lime - This is the ultimate refresher - A tantalizing fusion of fresh coconut, lime & invigorating verbena soothed by luscious vanilla. A classic which remains irresistible.

Coconut Mango - At the beach, the sun is beating down and your ice cream is starting to melt - it's the scent of summer with juicy mangoes, mixed berries and lashings of vanilla, coconut and papaya!

Cotton Candy - Just like fresh cotton candy from a country fair! A sugary strawberry and sweet vanilla scent.

Coconut Vanilla - A classic combination of buttery, creamy coconut with lashings of vanilla crème, musk and almond.

Cool as a Cucumber – A delightful scent of spearmint and cucumber. This is a whole time favourite and everyone loves the freshness of it.

Damask Rose - A tribute to one of the oldest rose strains in the world, a true floral rose with middle notes of jasmine, peony and hyacinth.

Dragon’s Blood - haunting and mysterious fragrance with sweet and spicy overtures

Mademoiselle de Paris – A vibrant & sophisticated feminine bouquet that incorporates bergamot & grapefruit with rose, jasmine & vetiver, perfectly placed on a base of vanilla, white musk & patchouli.

Energy -  is a strong citrus blend including lemon, lime, pomegranate and pineapple with hints of fresh jasmine.

Frankincense & Myrrh - Enchanting, aromatic blend of frankincense and myrrh with balsam, spice, patchouli and sandalwood.

Green Tea & Lemongrass - Refreshing & sophisticated scent. Notes of green tea, lavender, jasmine and lemongrass. This is a unique fragrance.

French Pear - A fragrance which is rich, juicy and meltingly smooth. An amazing pear fragrance.

Fresh Mango - The recognisable, intoxicating fruity smell of the mango fruit with additional notes of sweet musk and peach.

Gourmet Tahitian Vanilla - Rich and sweet, a light vanilla with notes of coconut and malt - fragrant vanilla at its best.

Grapefruit & Lime - consists of fresh bursts of exotic Persian lime, juicy grapefruit and the sweetest of mangoes, only to be exquisitely coupled with the warmth of nutmeg, clove and delicious cinnamon. A wonderful tropical blend!

Japanese Honeysuckle - One of the most loved floral scents. With top notes of mandarin & pine needle, middle notes of grape & neroli & base notes of vanilla, malt, jasmine & cedarwood

Jasmine - An exotic blend of freshly cut jasmine flowers.

Kaffir Lime & Sandalwood - A rich sandalwood blend with hints of patchouli combined with fresh zesty lime peel, sweet citrus orange & spiced amber.

Lavender – French Lavender

Lemongrass & Persian Lime - The unmistakable natural, fresh citrus scent of lemongrass is combined with zesty lime, lemon peel and a soft floral undertone.

Lime, Basil & Mandarin - This is a premium fragrance that combines fresh zesty citrus notes of lime & mandarin undertone with notes of basil & herbs. A very unisex fragrance suited for everyone

Love Spell - An instant classic - this fragrance is a luscious fusion of citrus, cherry blossom, hydrangea, apple and peach; with a hint of blondewood

Monkey Farts – A kids favourite. complex citrus blend that starts with a subtle base of vanilla, then layered with fresh kiwi fruit, mango and bubblegum, finished off with top notes of grapefruit, banana and fresh strawberries. To me smells just like banana lollies

Musk Sticks - Let the strong aroma invoke your childhood memories of playing and having fun.

Nag Champais an Indian fragrance commonly found in incense. It contains a large portion of sandalwood essential oils with notes of frangipani, patchouli, vanilla, musk and amber.

Orange Vanilla - A delightful combination of juicy, sweet orange enhanced by silky smooth Tahitian vanilla.

Peppermint Crisp - It starts with the freshness of peppermint essential oil and adds blueberry, Chantilly cream and marshmallow to make this fun, fruity blend.

Peppermint & Eucalyptus - An invigorating blend with peppermint, patchouli, cedar wood and eucalyptus.

Pink Champgne & Exotic Fruits - A platter of the most nectarous ingredients, Pink Champagne & Exotic Fruits can only be described as ambrosial with delicious passion fruit and guava notes at the heart, and pink grapefruit adding a sweet richness to this complex blend.

Pink Sugar Type - Fresh, yet warm and tender, this rich and sweet fragrance combines the fruity top notes of strawberry, raspberry and citrus with indulgent vanilla and white musk. A beautifully rounded medley that will leave you wanting more!

Ralph Lauren Blue type -  floral stunner begins with a dazzling, complex bouquet of lotus flower, lilies, jasmine petals, pink peonies, rose de mai, tuberose, and orange blossom. Clean white musk, ambrette, and lots of sandalwood balance the florals and provide a sultry, soft, long-lasting finish.

Rose Geranium - Rich warm & feminine, a beautiful scent of rose top notes laced with the sweet floral aroma of Geranium.

Rosemary & MintA homely, fresh and invigorating aroma, one not unlike the rosemary and mint you grow in your very own herb garden. With top notes consisting of cool spearmint and rosemary lashings at the heart of the fragrance.

Sage Flower - Clean, fresh, herbal notes of sage blended with trace notes of eucalyptus, hyacinth, jasmine & lilac with just a touch of cinnamon bark.

Salted CaramelA gorgeous sweet treat with buttery top notes and just a touch of saltiness, rounded out with caramel, coconut, vanilla and creamy condensed milk.

Sandalwood & Jasmine - Soft, woody and sensual with a slight balsamic note, balanced with warm, rich florals and an added spicy, smoky musky finish.

Sex on the Beach - A playful rendition of the classic tropical mixed drink that blends fresh pineapple & orange with tart cranberries. Notes of vodka & peach schnapps give this fragrance its “true to life” scent

Sheer Lily & White Rose – A sensual floral blend. At its core are white rose and lily intertwined with bergamot, white musk and touches of amber, cedar and peony petals.

Sinus Relief – Cool, fresh and crisp with essential oils of eucalyptus, peppermint and menthol with a hint of lavender. Give it a try for that blocked nose in the winter months!

Sunflowers - A warm, floral bouquet of blue chamomile, golden sunflower and neroli petals.

Sweet Orange - A combination of orange, lemon, pineapple and black pepper, and middle notes of lemongrass and orange blossom, blended perfectly with a base of vanilla and light musk.

Sweet Pea & Jasmine - A white jasmine combine to create the ultimate in floral elegance. With the delicate additions of watermelon and cucumber, this uplifting fragrance is perfectly balanced.

Thai Lime & MangoA refreshing zest accord with mouthwatering lemongrass, lemon peel and Kaffir lime supported with fresh pineapple, melon, grapefruit and juicy mango.

Uplifting - This is a rejuvenating ‘pick me up’. This highly stimulating blend energizes the central nervous system, invigorating & strengthening where there is weakness & exhaustion. Contains clary sage, aniseed, lemongrass, bergamot, peppermint & grapefruit

Vanilla Bean - The unmistakable sweet & sugary aroma of fresh vanilla beans with white musk middle note.

Vanilla Caramel - A scent enriched with sweet and salty buttery caramel. This sweet scent is balanced perfectly with rich creamy vanilla, coconut and tonka bean.

Vanilla, Patchouli & Sandalwood - A warming and luscious woody scent with top notes of bergamot and lemon peel, an earthy base of sandalwood, cedar wood and patchouli, and hints of vanilla and white musk.

Very VanillaYear after year vanilla reigns supreme as the bestselling candle fragrance. With its intense vanilla aroma, subtle touch of cream.

White MuskA smooth and sensuous musk fragrance with a floral twist that includes ylang ylang, rose and lily of the valley.

Wild Frangipani - This is a unique frangipani scent

Wild Mint & Lime - A fresh, crispy scent with notes of herbaceous mint & lush juicy lime. Rounded off with middle notes of herbal garden leaves & a deep floral base.

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